SUN PROTECTION AS THE FINAL STEP IN A SKINCARE ROUTINE

Chronic exposure to sunlight is known to have long-term detrimental effects on human skin, such as external skin aging. Accordingly, sun protection can help boost skin appearance.

In this regard, suncare brands have the chance to connect with consumers’ growing interest in health and wellbeing by incorporating popular skincare ingredients in future suncare developments, in addition to encouraging daily sun protection usage.

“In France, 51% of women agree that ingredients used in other categories (such as health) that are proven to have beauty benefits are appealing.”

Moreover, by adding UV filters to various skin care products, skincare brands can encourage users to protect their skin from the sun.
“In the UK, 21% of shoppers have used skincare or makeup with SPF (Sun Protection Factor) in the past 12 months.”

WHICH ARE THE COSMETIC RELEVANT EFFECTS OF SUNLIGHT?

1. Epidermal effect:

– Continuous exposure to sunlight leads to oxidative stress, measurable by increased levels of free radicals and carbonylated proteins.

– Keratinocytes are damaged, losing functionality and finally transforming into non-functional sunburn cells.

– The skin barrier is damaged, skin resilience is reduced, and typical signs of sensitive and dry skin conditions become visible.

2. Dermal effect:

– Damaged fibroblasts will produce less collagen. In particular, collagen III levels impact at a younger age.

– The skin starts to wrinkle and lose its elasticity, and signs of premature aging become visible.

HOW DOES SUNLIGHT AFFECT THE SKIN?

Until now, ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been regarded as the only cause of skin aging. However, more recently, it has become increasingly clear that the situation is much more complex: Not only does UV light affects skin aging, but also other wavelengths of the solar spectrum.

– UVA rays are absorbed by the deeper layers of the skin and are less energetic, and mainly cause long-term aging effects.

– UVB rays affect the upper layers of the skin and are the primary cause of short-term effects such as sunburn.

– Blue light penetrates deep into the skin and triggers oxidative stress that contributes to short and long-term skin aging.

In the last few years, the daily use of sunscreens has received considerable attention since people are over-exposed to UV light and air pollution, and tobacco smoke during everyday activities, even on cloudy days. Consequently, cosmetic products for daily photoprotection have been advocated as a potentially effective preventive measure to slow down skin aging.

“In THE US, 50% of skincare users expect their skincare routine to protect their skin from the sun.”

DELIVERING THE POWER OF THE UV PROTECTION: The broad PARSOL ® Portfolio

“UV protection” is the most popular claim in the sunscreen market. As a result, it was used for over three-quarters of launches in the second half of 2021. In this direction, Disproquima, together with DSM, offers you the broadest UV-filter portfolio in the industry:

SKINCARE AND ANTI-AGING CLAIMS ARE ALSO POPULAR: Our Proposals

In addition to sun protection, there is an ongoing focus on skincare benefits in sunscreens, with moisturizing and hydrating used for 85% of launches in the second half of 2021 and anti-aging for 22%. There is also rising use of reducing fine lines/wrinkles and brightening/illuminating claims.

“In China, 57% of sunscreen product users agree that sunscreen products should provide more skincare benefits other than UV protection.”

Edelweiss (Leontopodium nivale) near Glacier de Corbassiere and Cabane FXB Panossiere.

Disproquima proposes three ingredients of your choice to achieve these popular claims on your products.

– αGrutin PS-S (Glucosylrutin): Rutin is a bioflavonoid found in many fruits and vegetables, has antioxidant and anti-allergic activity, and improves microcirculation.

– Niacinamide PC (Niacinamide): Vitamin B3 is a low guaranteed level of residual nicotinic acid with main benefits such as blemish care, UV- and blue-light-stressed skincare (skin tone, damage caused by light), and enhanced functionality of the skin barrier.

– Alpaflor® Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alinum Flower and Leaf extract): Cultivated at high altitude in the Swiss Alps, it supports the skin’s crucial protective barrier, enhancing its resistance to external stress factors and providing an ultimate skin sensation.

References:

– Whiteman et al. When to apply sunscreen: a consensus statement for Australia and New Zealand (2019). Aust NZ J Public Health; 43:171-5. Available on: https://doi.org/10.1111/1753-6405.12873

– Kruntmann et al. Daily photoprotection to prevent photoaging (2021). Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed; 37:482–489. Available on: https://doi.org/10.1111/phpp.12688

– Innova Database. Available on: https://innovadatabase.com/

– Mintel Database. Available on: https://es.mintel.com/